Chanel and Audemars Piguet create the J12 3125


J12 calibre 3125

Chanel and Audemars Piguet combine talents to create a new Fine Watchmaking “J12”
La Cote des Montres - January 30th, 2008

Over recent years the “J12” collection has established itself as an international watchmaking reference; whether the model be in black or white ceramic, a chronograph, a Tourbillon or set with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds or rubies.

Following the success of the grand complication: the “J12” Tourbillon; Chanel wished a return to authenticity with a “Haute Horlogerie” automatic movement with 3 hands, paying homage to the very roots of traditional watchmaking.

In order to create this new movement, Chanel naturally turned to one of the most prestigious Swiss “manufacture”, Audemars Piguet.

The result of this partnership is the “J12 calibre 3125” in 18K yellow gold and black ceramic, associating both graphic perfection and mechanical excellence. Audemars Piguet guarantees tradition craftsmanship, outstanding finishes and absolute attention to detail, along with its exceptional know-how combined with state-of-the-art technology.

Philippe Mougenot - Chanel & Georges-Henri Meylan - Audemars Piguet

Chanel and Audemars Piguet combine talents to create a new "J12” edition: the "J12 calibre 3125”


“Audemars Piguet offers us the prestige of a movement conceived in the finest watchmaking tradition, which will be associated with Chanel watch design excellence, to produce an exceptional timepiece,” pointed out Philippe Mougenot, President of the Chanel Watch and Fine Jewelry Division.

For Audemars Piguet, this collaboration with one of the most emblematic luxury brands in the world offers the opportunity to increase its visibility and prestige in eyes of the feminine sector, one traditionally belonging to Chanel.

“This partnership would not have been possible if we didn’t share the same values,” added Georges-Henri Meylan, CEO of Audemars Piguet “notably, our insistence upon excellence and perfection and a strong attachment to the independence of our respective companies.”


J12 Calibre 3125

“J12” watch: in black ceramic and 18K yellow gold
Bracelet: in black ceramic
Triple-folding buckle: patented Chanel in 18K yellow gold
Uni-directional:turning bezel in 18K yellow gold and black ceramic
Crystal and caseback:in sapphire glass
Water-resistant:50 meters
Diameter:42 mm
Automatic movement:CHANEL AP - 3125
Power reserve:60 hours
Rotor:in black ceramic and 22K rhodiumplated yellow gold, mounted on ceramic ball bearings


The new movement Chanel AP - 3125


Decoration and finish


The fusion of the AP 3120 movement and “J12” ceramic has produced the 3125 movement; Chanel has redesigned the balance bridge and the rotor is clad in black ceramic.

Rotor:mirror-polished ceramic and 22K rhodiumplated yellow gold
Bridge decoration:“Côtes de Genève”
Bearings:Haute Horlogerie finish:
  • Non-functional surfaces: gold-plated and decorated
  • Arms: chamfered, edges and surfaces diamond-polished
  • Teeth: milled after being gold-plated
  • Pinions: polished

Technical Details

Double balance bridge


Guarantees high precision positioning of the balance and greater degree of shock resistance, thus ensuring greater timekeeping precision.

Balance with 8 Giromax regulating weights


Large balance with variable moment of inertia via with eight small weights. Which allow regulation of the rate of the watch function without altering the length of the balance-spring.

Hand-Setting function with balances stop


Pulling out the crown automatically activates the balance stop lever. This guarantees that the seconds hand is immediately stopped and that the time may be set precisely.

Precision automatic winding


  • Minimal friction at wheels and function springs.
  • Rapide complete winding in both directions with balanced direction reverser.
  • Barillet with consistent coefficient and 60-hour power reserve.
  • Rotor in 22K rhodiumplated yellow gold mounted on ceramic ball bearings.
  • Large crown and winding wheel with integrated disengagement system for automatic winding, ensuring easy manual winding without wear and tear.

Date mechanism


  • Instantaneous date jump at midnight through advance winding of the date changing mechanism spring.
  • Rapid changing of the date with less than one full revolution of crown.
  • Integrated safety system preventing blocking of date disk when corrected around midnight.
  • Ruby-mounted date disk to reduce friction.

Technical Data


Total thickness: 4,55mmAutomatic winding in both directions
Total diameter: 26.60mm (11 3⁄4 lines)Rotor in 22K rhodiumplated yellow gold mounted on ceramic ball bearings
Fitting diameter: 26,00mm“KIF Elastor” shock protection system of the balance
Frequency: 21'600 Vibrations / hour (3Hz)Adjustable beat arm
Number of jewels: 40Balance with adjustable moment of inertia
Power reserve at full wind: over 60 hoursNumber of parts: 278